Luxury beauty for Black consumers: A conversation with Deborah Johnson
The Smart Beauty podcast recently welcomed Deborah Johnson, a renowned PR expert and founder of her own consultancy, for an insightful discussion on luxury beauty for Black consumers. The episode delved into Deborah’s career journey, her expertise in the beauty industry, and the crucial conversations she is leading about inclusivity in the luxury beauty sector.
A journey through beauty PR
Deborah Johnson has spent 17 years in the beauty industry, beginning her career in agencies and eventually rising to account director before launching her own consultancy. She credits her formative years at Pure PR, under the mentorship of founder Kelly Marks, as pivotal to her success.
“It was a great agency to work for,” Deborah recalled. “They gave me autonomy, creative freedom, and the chance to learn through hands-on experience. Pure PR had a diverse team, and I felt truly at home there.”
This supportive environment allowed Deborah to develop her voice and refine her skills in beauty PR. Now, with her consultancy (DJPR), she specialises in working with independent brands and founders, offering not only PR services but also brand consultancy and strategic insights.
The Mayfair Edit: luxury beauty and Black consumers
Recently, Deborah led a panel discussion at British Beauty Week in collaboration with The Mayfair Edit, focusing on Black consumers in the luxury beauty market. For Deborah, the topic is deeply personal and professionally significant.
“When I started in the industry, I rarely saw Black faces in marketing for luxury beauty,” she explained. “It was jarring because Black consumers have long been key drivers of cultural influence, particularly in beauty. Yet, their contributions and unique needs were often marginalised or overlooked, especially in the luxury sector.”
She highlighted the importance of moving beyond tokenism and embracing equity, representation, and opportunity. Black consumers’ spending power is immense, Deborah noted, and their preferences often set the tone for wider beauty trends. However, luxury brands have been slow to fully acknowledge this.
Defining luxury for Black consumers
During the panel, Deborah explored what luxury means for Black consumers and how that definition may differ from the industry’s traditional perspective.
“For many Black women, luxury often aligns with having something created specifically with them in mind,” she said. “Historically, this hasn’t been the case, with products and campaigns frequently designed without considering their unique needs. When brands do create with intention and care, it feels revolutionary.”
Deborah also questioned how luxury is defined and marketed. “Luxury is often framed through a Eurocentric lens, which doesn’t always resonate with other cultural heritages and traditions. It shouldn’t be a one-size-fits-all concept,” she argued.
The path forward
When asked whether the future of luxury beauty for Black consumers lies with Black-owned brands or inclusivity from established luxury houses, Deborah was clear: both approaches are essential.
“Luxury brands are expanding their shade ranges and featuring more Black models and ambassadors, but this work can sometimes feel tokenistic if diversity isn’t embedded in the brand’s DNA,” she said.
She praised brands like Oribe, whose recent campaign with Kenyan artist Thandiwe Muriu exemplified how luxury can honour and celebrate cultural heritage. “It’s a joy to see campaigns that respect and pay homage to different cultures while still feeling luxurious,” Deborah remarked.
A call to action
Deborah emphasised that the industry must commit to genuine, long-term change. This includes diversifying decision-makers within luxury beauty and ensuring that marketing, product development, and brand storytelling reflect a broader range of experiences and identities.
The conversation with Deborah Johnson highlights an evolving beauty industry that still has much work to do. As Deborah eloquently put it: “It’s not just about inclusivity—it’s about equity and creating space for everyone to see themselves in the beauty narrative.”
You can listen to the full discussion here and discover more episodes from the Smart Beauty Podcast.